The BEST Restaurant in Napa

First things first ... Yes, I'm from there.  Yes, Michael Chiarello is my chef "idol".  Yes, I have all of his cookbooks, and I even use them.  And, yes, if you must know, I still DVR every Easy Entertaining and Napastyle and save them for hours of enjoyment on Saturday afternoons!  For goodness sake, the guy serves "grits" at this place - who doesn't love an Italian who serves grits?  (OK, he calls them polenta on the menu, then he brings them to your table and, having been forewarned of where you're from, he calls them "grits").


I LOVE food, and was not going to miss a to visit this place - it's one of only two places I made reservations for - when I was last in San Francisco.  Just the chance of getting to dine at Bottega was enough for me, so the rest was completely over the top.  And I think, what better time than today, after watching the Next Iron Chef - Super Chefs last night to share this!
As one of my "must dos" for a recent trip to CA and the wine country, I was so excited to have the opportunity to eat at Bottega.  From the moment we walked in, until we were leaving the parking lot, where Chef Chiarello greeted us again and asked how our experience was, this was a most memorable evening.  

The service is superb.  Chef Chiarello and his staff go out of their way to ensure your comfort.  The wine list is terrific, with wines ranging all over the board in price.  Understanding that we don't get quite the selection in Birmingham as one might in CA, (and prepared to pay dearly to have a taste of things we don't get at home) I was particularly impressed that our wait staff actually recommended something that wasn't at the top of the $ scale.  It was quite refreshing.  

With respect to the food, I couldn't possibly pick one thing out that I loved the best - it was all awesome.  The gnocchi, the salad, the desserts ... Everything was so fresh, the highest quality, and impeccably prepared.  I would, however, tell you not to miss the Polenta Under Glass!  Or the Chocolate Hazelnut Molten Cake ... don't miss that either.

The entire experience was fabulous.  Chef Chiarello greeted us at the table a few times during dinner. He was so pleasant and made us feel as if we were the only people dining in his establishment that night.  The next day, while shopping at his Napastyle store, we decided to have a glass of wine at the bar at Bottega.  Chef Chiarello was right there - actually having a coffee cupping at the time - and made us feel comfortable at his bar with great conversation.  More times than not, a "celebrity chef" is not involved in his/her restaurant.  I can assure you, barring the final rounds of The Next Iron Chef - Super Chef, he's going to be there with his hands on your food, making sure that everything coming out of that kitchen passes his tests.

Not only can you not go wrong eating here - this needs to be on your destination list in Napa.  You will not regret it.

Biscuits & Gravy (Biscuits)

Biscuits. The perfect southern breakfast staple (add some grits and a piece of meat, and it can be "dinner" at my house!). They're warm and fluffy, the ultimate comfort food.  They can be sweet and salty, both at the same time (a nub of salted butter and a drizzle of wildflower honey for me, please).  Then you can take the biscuit to a whole new level - it can envelop a piece of sausage, or ham, or a chicken tender and be called a sandwich.  It can be sliced open, and alternately layered with strawberries and cream, and then topped with a dollop of cream, and it's dessert.  They're pretty darned universal,  come to think of it.

Making biscuits is a skill that all cooks should master.  No. 1 rule - keep the wet and dry ingredients separate until just before you're ready to bake them.  I have been making biscuits for a number of years, and this recipe is, by far, fail-safe and the TASTIEST!

INGREDIENTS

4 cups all purpose flour

4 tsps baking powder

1 tsp baking soda

1 tsp salt

12 tbsp cold, unsalted butter, cut into 1/2" cubes (or something that resembles that)

1 1/2 cups buttermilk

1/2 cup heavy cream

DIRECTIONS:

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F.

(1)  Cut the butter into small chunks and put it back into the fridge.  This is important because it's the cold butter that's going to make your biscuits flaky.

(2)  Combine the dry ingredients, add the chilled butter, and work it in until it looks like coarse cornmeal (use a pastry cutter or knives).



(3) Add the buttermilk, and stir just to combine.  Form the dough into a "blob" in your bowl ...

          

(4)  Dump the blob of flour, butter and buttermilk mixture on a well floured work surface.  Gently work the mess into a smooth dough.  You can see the progression above - this was done by mounding and patting and then kneading - but not too much.  You don't want to handle the dough too much - it will get tough and the butter will melt from the heat of your hands and then you won't have flaky biscuits.   

(5)  Once you have it looking about like the last photo above, roll the dough to 1/2"(+) thickness.   Now it's time to cut them out.  You can use a cookie cutter or a drinking glass, or you can use a knife to cut squares (I've been told that's pretty traditional in the south).  

(6)  Lay the biscuits out on a parchment lined baking sheet, and brush the tops with a little heavy cream (or half and half), then sprinkle with cracked black pepper - not too fine and not too coarse.

Bake for about 12-15 minutes or until they're golden.

Who could resist this? Add a little butter, some honey, or homemade blueberry-lavender preserves and a tall glass of milk, and you have HEAVEN!

Then there's always a little treat for the chef.  I usually take the scraps of the cut out dough and shape them into little rounds - they're for me to pop in my mouth (or to give my kitchen helper/cleaner-upper, Sunshine the Beagle)

Chef's Treat (baby biscuit with cheese)

NEXT UP:  Tomato Gravy!

Turkey Orecchiette

This is a perfect week night dinner.  Quick & easy, two pans, and incredibly tasty.

INGREDIENTS:

1 box baby Arugula

1 lb ground turkey

1 lb orecchiette pasta (or any similar pasta: farfalle, for example)

2 Tbsp olive oil

1 Tsp red pepper flakes

3 garlic cloves, minced

Grated Parmesan (about 1/2c)

DIRECTIONS:

There are so many variations to this recipe.  Use spinach or any other spicy greens.  Instead of turkey, use ground pork, or even ground beef (just don't need to use so much olive oil).

DIRECTIONS:

(1)  Bring a large pot of water to a boil and add salt.  Add the arugula and cook for just 2 minutes (until the arugula begins to wilt, see pic at right).  Immediately remove the arugula from the boiling water with a slotted spoon into a cold water bath to stop the cooking.  Bring the pasta water back to a boil, add the pasta and cook according to directions.  

(2)  While your pasta is cooking, add olive oil to a saute pan.  THIS IS A KEY STEP.  Ground turkey does not have much fat in it.  In order to get your meat to brown nicely, you need to add some fat to the pan,  I use about 2 tablespoons to start, then when it's all browned, add a little more.  

(3)  Cook the turkey until it browns, scarping up the browned bits from the bottom of the pan as you go (these are tasty treats in the finished pasta!).  Once your meat is browned, check and make sure you still have enough olive oil to add the garlic; if not, add a little more - maybe a teaspoon or two.  Add the garlic and red pepper flakes and stir, constantly, until the garlic is sauteed.   Add the (strained) arugula to the sausage, and stir to combine.   

(4)  Drain the pasta, reserving about 1/4 cup of the water.  Add the pasta back into the large pot and add the sausage & arugula mixture and, finally, the parmesan.  You can add the reserved liquid, as needed - it just makes it easier to stir, and creamier when you add the parm in.  

ENJOY!!

Jalapeno Cornbread

INGREDIENTS:

3 cups cornmeal

1 teaspoon baking powder

1 teaspoon baking soda

2 teaspoons salt

1/2 teaspoon fresh ground pepper

2 large eggs, beaten

3 cups buttermilk

10 tablespoons melted butter

4 jalapeños, seeded & small diced

DIRECTIONS:

1.  Heat the oven to 450 and pull out your cast iron skillet.  Put about a tablespoon of the butter in the skillet and heat it in the oven.  

2.  In a large bowl, combine cornmeal, baking powder, baking soda salt and pepper.   And in a small bowl, combine buttermilk, eggs and remaining melted butter.  NOTE:  Melt the butter in the microwave and let it stand to get to room temp.  This is important because (a) the buttermilk and the butter don't mix well and (b) if you mix the hot butter with the eggs, they will scramble. 

4.  Mix the wet and dry ingredients just until combined.  Add the diced jalapenos and immediately pour the mix into the heated skillet.  This will cause the crust to form and the bottom will be crispy and golden brown (YUM).  

5.  Bake for 25-30 minutes or until golden on top.  Let stand for about 5 minutes in the skillet and cut.  

White Bean Chili

This is one of my go to recipes for something lighter than chili but more substantial than chicken noodle!  This dish has two different types of peppers in it: Jalapeño and Poblano.  Jalapeño is medium sized chili pepper (about 2-3" in length), with medium heat - I say medium, but I like everything spicy.  They're commonly sliced and used in nachos, and can be eaten hot or cold.  If they are smoked, they're called Chipotles.  They can be stuffed, or stuffed and breaded and fried (jalapeño poppers).  I use them a lot for seasoning (chilies, soups, cornbread).   The Poblano is a much more mild pepper.  It's about 4-6" in length, and has thick outer walls (that's why it's a good idea to roast, steam, then peel them).  Poblanos are commonly stuffed (with cheese or chicken), dipped in whipped egg and then fried, or they can be used in mole sauces. When they are dried, they're called Ancho Chilies.     

INGREDIENTS:

2 poblano peppers

1 pound dried navy beans

1 Rotisserie chicken (or 4 chicken breast halves, cleaned, roasted in the oven)

1 large Vidalia onion, medium dice

2 large cloves of garlic, minced

1 large jalapeño pepper, small dice

2 teaspoons cumin

1 tablespoon Mexican oregano

2 teaspoons chili powder

6 cups chicken stock

1 tablespoon Olive Oil

DIRECTIONS:

1.  Place beans in a 5 qt dutch over and cover by two inches with water.  Cover, bring to a boil and immediately turn down the heat to low / medium-low.  Cook for about 2 1/2 hours, stirring occasionally.  Add 1 tablespoon of salt and cook for 30 mins more.  Beans are tricky:  If they are older, they take longer to cook.  Taste them for your desired bean definition - just make sure you don't add the salt till the last 30mins because that will make them tough.  

2.  While your beans are cooking, roast poblano peppers over the heat on your stovetop (if you don't have gas, roast them in the oven under the broiler) till charred.  I put mine right on the grate over the flame.  

           

Immediately put them in a paper bag (or ziploc bag), seal and let 'em sit for about 15m.

3.   Scrape off the charred outside of the roasted peppers.  This part can get messy.  Try, at all costs, NOT to rinse them under running water - It also rinses off lots of yummy flavor.  It's OK if you don't get all the charred bits off - That's just MORE FLAVOR!    

Split them open and, using the blade of a knife, scrape out the seeds and membranes.  It's easier to just cut the stem off before you split them, or you can just cut around it.  Once you have cleaned it and removed the step, you can open it on the cutting board to slice and dice.  Dice these into 1/4" pcs.  

Next, chop your onion, mince your garlic and dice (really small) your jalapeño.

4. If you have purchased a rotisserie chicken (the best bet), pull the chicken off the bone and save the carcass and skin and use it to make stock later.  

5.  Heat a tablespoon of olive oil in a dutch oven, add the onions and roasted poblanos; saute over medium heat for about 7-10  minutes (till the onions are translucent).

 Next, add the garlic and jalapeño, stir till fragrant (about 30 seconds; not much more - burned garlic has a funky taste), then add your spices and stir until everything is well-coated.  

7.  Next add the cooked beans, chicken stock and chicken.  Heat through, stirring occasionally.




Now, you're ready to plate it and ENJOY!

SERVING SUGGESTION:  I like this with a little Monterrey Jack cheese shredded on top and a few leaves of cilantro.  It's awesome served with jalapeño cornbread (recipe to come) on a crisp fall afternoon while you're watching your favorite team play!  Beverage of choice:  Cold Beer!     

It's FALL, Y'all ...

It IS.  It's HERE!

This morning when I woke up it was 54 degrees outside.  Last night while driving out of the little Town of MT Laurel, nestled in the Dunnavant Valley, I noticed that the trees blanketing the mountain are putting their fall wardrobe together - pretty colors of gold and deep red.  Birmingham is a fabulous place to watch fall set in, and the Dunnavant Valley is most gorgeous.

My first load of firewood is being delivered this afternoon.  I now have two fireplaces in which to burn firewood  (one in the living room and one outside); I'll surely be Mr. Champion's best customer this year.

Pumpkins are in down at the MT Laurel Grocery - All shapes and sizes.  And colors.  I think I'll have to have the green and orange one.

And - College Football is on today - We're already in Week 5 of the of the N-C-Double-A Schedule, and according to the AP, 3 of the top 10 are SEC teams (#1 - LSU, #3 - Alabama, #10 - S. Carolina), with Florida not far behind.

As I sit in my favorite chair with my Saturday morning coffee, this is my sensory stimuli: windows open, I can smell the cool air (it just "smells" chilly, it's different than that warm summer morning air).  The leaves are rustling on the trees, some of them have already turned golden.  Some of the already fallen ones are tumbling down the street, racing with a little boy on his bike.   I am reading my favorite cooking magazines for ideas to create something fabulous ... I can almost taste fall.

It's FALL, Y'all!  That means it's time for soups and stews and cornbread.  Time for chili on a cool afternoon.  And time for pumpkin cheesecake and apple butter on warm toast.   I hope you will enjoy some of MY favorite things to make in the fall over the next few weeks.

LOCAL THREE - A Restaurant Review

Who wouldn't want to eat in this bar?

When I'm in Atlanta, I LOVE to go out to eat.  I tell you that in the same breath that I'll mention that my best friend's husband is an 
awesome cook and has access to some really fabulous seafood - the very best!  So, when we're eating together, it's usually a tough toss up between eating a 5 course meal (that can last hours) at their house in Buckhead or dining out.  However, on a (not so) recent occasion, my best friend and I decided to hit a new place (at the time it was), that neither of us had been to, Local Three.

The Guys!!

This place was opened by three locals ... Ryan Turner, Todd Mussman and Chris Hall.  Todd and Ryan are from Food Studio (and that pretty much explains why I LOVE this place, right there ... FS was one of my all time faves!), and Chris was the chef at the Sundial Restaurant.  Todd and Ryan are the fathers of the famed Muss & Turners in Smyrna.   I believe the three met at a charity event, and talked beer, wine and pig, and, while Chris was thinking about opening his own place, LOCAL THREE was born.   It's said that Todd & Chris = "Back o' the House" and Ryan = "Front o' the House", but I'll tell ya, they all three feel like the whole thing is their sole responsibility.  For instance, Chris has welcomed me at my table a couple of times, and came out to greet patrons I've sent in, too.  Good Folks, these guys.  
They've got a great thing going, driven by an awesome philosophy, which is, plain as day, out there for everyone to see:  People Matter Most.  Local is Priority.  Seasonal Makes Sense.  Authenticity Rules.  Quality Governs.  Delicious Trumps.  Pretense Stinks.  Comfort Feels Good.  Appreciation Tasted Better.  Prudence Sustains It All.

 



Get it?  WOW --- that right there makes me want to hang out with them (and eat, of course)!




So ... I decided that I'd let the rest of Atlanta have a taste of what I got and realize what a gem they have right there, on the northside of town, and wrote a review on YELP!  And wouldn't you know ... Chef Chris wrote me a nice little note back!  


Here's my review of Local Three:


They had me at their Daily Operating Philosophy.


Chef Chris Hall and Todd and Ryan (of Muss & Turner's) have this one NAILED!  They've opened Local Three in the old Joel location - but don't let that steer you away ... Fortunate to have a fab kitchen, I don't think they changed much there, but the decor was just so "last year", as was the food.  Local Three looks and feels not one bit like Joel, and I couldn't have been more impressed.   

I had the opportunity to visit Local Three last week and was completely blown away.  I consider myself a bit of a foodie, and have a discerning palate for all types of food - boiled peanuts and popcorn included.  Their bar "snacks" are fun, not fussy.  (yes, I said "boiled peanuts" - YUM).

The bar was warm, inviting, yet a little elegant.  PERFECT for a drop in drink, a drink before dinner and even dinner!  The selection of beer was outrageous (I was warned) as was the bourbon and whiskey list.  We chose a nice bottle of wine (I'm not too knowledgeable on the brown stuff), although, the cocktail list was also quite impressive.  The service, even though they were pretty tight, was awesome - I felt like we were the only two in the place - we never had to ask for a thing.

Our lobster gnocchi, grilled flatiron, pan seared (Georgia) trout, salads - EVERYthing - was perfect.

Atlanta needs more places like this.  The place is "just right" (which I think is what the boys want it to be).  It's a bit of a local place, a bit of a night out for dinner place, and even more so, a place you want to come back to soon.

Go.  Now.  Be prepared to "sit deep and stay long" - they live by their philosophy and they want to get to know you ... I can attest to this. 

Perfect Peas & Pork (Chops)

HOPPIN JOHN

With a freezer full of peas that I've just "put up" - It was time to start doing something with them, so I made some Hoppin' John with pork chops last night for dinner.

For those of you "not from here", Hoppin' John is basically peas and rice.  It is a southern United States version of the traditional rice and beans dish from West Africa. In the southern coastal areas, we use field peas; black eyed peas are used most everywhere else.  For the most part, in everything I've read, Hoppin' John seems to come from the Low Country cuisine of the Carolinas, which is the cooking style most associated with the sea islands - the cluster of coastal islands off S. Carolina and Georgia (surely, you've heard of Sea Island, Georgia, a beautifully peaceful place).  It is usually prepared by simmering the peas with a ham hock and some veggies - I tend to take the (Louisiana) Trinity approach on the veggies:  onions, celery and bell pepper.

You've possibly heard of Hoppin' John referenced as served with collards or other greens for a traditional southern New Years Day dish.  It is said to bring good luck.  There are tons of legends about how the dish got its name ... everything from a crippled man, nick-named Hoppin' John, selling the dish in Charleston, to the custom of southern children hopping once around the table before the dish was served.   But the one I like best (because it definitely defines what I have seen of some parts of South Carolina) is that a SC custom was to invite a guest over to eat by saying "Hop In John!"  One thing I do know for sure is that it is a "tradition":  It was first written in a cookbook called The Carolina Housewife, by Sara Rutledge, published in 1847.

Most recipes are rather similar, but there are definitely different variations.  Some cook the peas with the rice, some ladle them (and their "pea liquor") over the rice.  I like to cook my peas separately from my rice.  Here's my version:

INGREDIENTS:

For the peas:
1 Vidalia Onion, medium diced
1/2 cup celery, small dice
1/4 cup red bell pepper, small dice
1 tsp garlic, minced
1 tsp jalapeno pepper, minced
1 Tbsp Olive Oil (Extra Virgin is my favorite)
2 cups Chicken Stock
2 cups water
1 quart Field Peas (should  be a little over a pound when thawed)
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp cayenne pepper
Fresh Ground Pepper and Kosher Sea Salt
3 slices thick cut Applewood Smoked Bacon

For the rice:
1 cup of Uncle Ben's (no lie - Uncle Ben's is the only way to go)
2 cups water
1 Tbsp Salted Butter
Salt

DIRECTIONS:

DICE Your Veggies ... Small on the celery, Medium on the onion and Small on the bell pepper

(1) Heat a medium dutch oven with olive oil in it and saute the onions, celery and bell pepper (I use red because it's pretty ... green can also be used - that's more traditional for the Trinity.  Personal Preference here!) for about 4 minutes - keep the crunch ... don't let the onions get too soft.












(2) Add the garlic and jalapeno and saute till just "fragrant" - lots of people ask what that means.  I usually don't saute garlic and jalapenos for longer than a minute otherwise the garlic burns and the dish is better off in the trashcan.  burnt garlic = yuck. It can overcome the taste of any dish.








(3)  Add the peas, the stock (I use 2 cups+ stock and cut it with 2 cups- water because my stock is homemade, and tends to be a little more heavy than most) the water, all the seasonings and bacon.  Bring to a boil, and turn it down to simmer till the peas are YOUR DESIRED CONSISTENCY.  I stress this because some people would cook them all day till they are really creamy; others might like them cooked for only about 20mins - just till tender.



For the Rice:

Put it all in a small pot, cover with a lid, bring to a boil and turn it down to low and let it go for 20mins.  Right before you serve, fluff it with a fork and put the lid back on.

WINE PAIRING:  Those of you who know me, know that I usually don't match my food to my wines - red meat + red wine / pork + white wine - but the recipe I used for the pork chops (coming up next) uses 1/2 cup of white wine, and it was open ... and it sure was a good match!  So, try the 2010  Vincent Delaporte Sancerre, from the Loire Valley.  Should run you about $25 (a steal!).  I keep about 1/2 a case of this in my wine fridge all the time.  It's good, balanced, light, crisp.  Great summer drinking!